One cannot talk about Kyoto sake without mentioning the Fushimi district. Fushimi continues to be one of the largest sake producers in the country. Its fame is attested by the saying, “Nada no otoko-zake, Fushimi no onna-zake” (Nada's male sake, Fushimi’s female sake). Nada’s sake is famous for its dryness, but Fushimi’s produce is smooth and silky, made from relatively hard water that contains no iron but a good balance of potassium and calcium.
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The history of sake-making in Kyoto goes way back. It is said that the technology was brought from the Korean Peninsula in the fifth century. Records show that during the Heian period (794-1192), a sake quarter known as Miki-no-Tsukasa was established behind the Emperor’s castle to supply festivals. Later, many sake breweries opened alongside each other in Kyoto. By the Muromachi period (1333-1573), there were some 347 brewers within the city. Although sake production in Fushimi has a long history, it was not until the Momoyama period when Toyotomi Hideyoshi built Fushimi Castle (circa 1592) that the local brews achieved their fame. Fushimi is well-located, with a river that feeds into the sea at Osaka. At the time it was a castle town, meaning sake was in great demand. These conditions led to a flourishing sake industry.
Fushimi was once one of the most famous sake districts in Japan. There is so much water flowing beneath Fushimi that it was once written with the characters for “groundwater.” Gokogu Shrine, which was named by the Imperial Court in honor of its scented water, has excellent groundwater and springs that give off a fresh fragrance. The water there has been chosen as one of Japan’s one hundred great waters. The legend of Fushimi Nanatsui (Fushimi’s seven great wells) from the time of Hideyoshi is still told today. These seven wells include Kinmeisui, Ginmeisui, and Shiragikusui. At our Touzan bar, we serve sake brewed since 1791. The brewery was established near Sanjusan Gendo temple at Higashiyama-ku in Kyoto, but in 1922 it was relocated to Fushimi to take advantage of the areas’ famed water.
When buying sake as a souvenir, it is difficult to know which one is good. Ideally, you should taste a few different brands before making your choice. Machiya Sabo, located on Shijo-dori, Kyoto’s main street, is a traditional tea house with a gallery space to experience Kyo-machiya, the traditional Kyoto style town house.
Machiya Sabo offers free tasting of three of Fushimi’s 22 premium and super premium sakes (ginjo and daiginjo). One is chosen by the house, while the other two you get to choose yourself. Buy a bottle of the sake you like, and you will have fond memories of your time in Kyoto when you open it back home. Alternatively, give it as a souvenir of your trip.
Reference:
Before Buying Souvenirs of Kyoto, Nozomi, Inc., 2004
Machiya Sabo
Address: 11 Shijo-dori Nishi-no-Toin Higashi-iru Katsukyoyama-cho, Shimogyo-ku, Kyoto
TEL: 81-75-225-0702
Business Hours: from 11:00 to 21:00
Closed: Wednesday
