HYATT REGENCY KYOTO

The superior water in Kyoto, a city surrounded by mountains and nature, is an indispensable ingredient in the manufacture of delicious tofu, yet another product that has been developed in Kyoto.  Tofu is used in Buddhist vegetarian cooking and Kyoto’s Nanzenji Temple neighbourhood is famous for its tofu hotpots.  

Sakyo-ku’s Nanzenji Temple was designated as a “Gozannoue (Above the Five Zen Monasteries) ”, the highest status for a Zen Buddhist Temple, during the time of the third government of the Muromachi brigadier, Yoshimitsu Ashikaga.  This grading method of "Kyoto Gozan (Kyoto Five Zen Monasteries)" was adopted from a formality practiced in China at the end of the Nanso Period that ranked five temples above all others in order to protect and control Zen Buddhism.  Because the approach to Nanzenji Temple diverged from Tokaido Road, a pivotal traffic centre , it was the route used by many travellers in those days.  Today, many tofu hotpot shops can be found along the approach to Nanzenji Temple.

“Miyako Rinsen Meisho Zue (City Map of Beautiful Gardens and Scenery ) ”, a nine-edition guidebook to Kyoto published in the mid-Edo period, introduces the tofu hotpot served as a house specialty by Kyoto’s Tango-ya.  Tango-ya was later divided into three teahouses offering drinks and light meals to travellers.  Okutan, one of these three teahouses, was the first shop in the Nanzenji Temple neighbourhood to sell the tofu hotpot, thus launching a trend that spread to other areas.  Okutan’s delicious tofu hotpots became a topic of discussion and other shops in the neighbourhood also began serving the dish .  Established as a restaurant specialising in Buddhist vegetarian cuisine, Okutan later made the hotpot its signature dish.  Today, Okutan is committed to its original fare and serves home-made food made only from the finest ingredients, including soybeans and nigari (bittern).

How did tofu originally come to Japan?  First made in China some 2,000 years ago, tofu was introduced to Japan during the Nara period.  As Zen prospered during the Kamakura period, the tofu culture began to develop in Kyoto, thanks to its clean water, and large number of temples and shrines.  Tofu gradually became popular among Buddhist priests as a rich source of valuable protein, and it was originally reserved for the priesthood and aristocracy.  However, after Nakamuraro, a teahouse at the entrance to the Yasaka Shrine, began selling its “Gion Tofu” about 450 years ago, what was once considered a luxury food became popular among the common people.

Gion Tofu is served on a skewer and grilled with sweet miso sauce.  Nakamuraro became popular not only for its delicious food, but also for its displays of tofu slicing.  For those who are interested, the sweet and savoury Gion Tofu, once highly thought of by the people of the Edo period, is still available today … yet another attraction that makes Kyoto so special.  

Kyoto boasts other styles of tofu, such as "Saga Tofu" and "Nanzenji Tofu ", with flavours that vary according to each maker.  By visiting a number of different Kyoto tofu shops, you can learn the different characteristics that define each tofu type and gain a greater appreciation of this wonderful food.    

References
Before Buying Souvenirs in Kyoto, (2004) Nozomi Inc.

Okutan
Nanzenji Temple S hop 075-771-8709
86-30, Nanzenji Fukuchi-cho, Sakyo-ku, Kyoto
Open from 10:30am to 5 :00pm
Closed on Thursdays
※ Reservations are required

Nakamuraro
075-561-0016
Yasaka Shrine Torii, 509 Gion-machi Minami Gawa, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto
Lunch from 11:30am to 2 :00pm; D inner from 5 :00pm to 7 :00pm
Irregular closing days
※ Reservations are required
Gion Tofu: 700 yen