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Vol.3 Temples and Shrines of Kyoto, Higashiyama

Each city has its own atmosphere. The appearance of the streets, people’s character, the climate, and all other elements create their uniqueness. Kyoto city is no exception. When you step into the city, you will feel something completely different from any other city. People’s life has been continued and developed since Kyoto became the capital of Japan in 794, and here you would find something you can’t describe in words.


City Protected by Four Gods

Kyoto has developed itself for more than 1,200 years. The Emperor Kammu, who got his position after many conspiracies, transferred the capital to Kyoto. In those days, it was believed that all accidents were caused by ghosts. To escape from ghosts, to separate his reign from the old force, and to create a new country, the Emperor tried large-scale transfers of the capital twice. Kyoto was his last destination. It has been said that Kyoto is a worthy town of being protected by four gods. There are the mountains in the north, the big street in the west, the hollow in the south as the front, and the current in the east protected by the Gemmu God (Black Warrior), Byakko God (White Tiger), Suzaku God (Red Chinese Phoenix), and Seiryu God (Blue Dragon) respectively. If you feel the four gods still protecting this town, you will fully experience the sanctity there.
In addition, we often hear legends related to the temples and shrines in each direction. Here is an interesting story mentioned in Kyoto Hakken II (Discoveries in Kyoto II) written by Takeshi Umehara. The Yasaka Shrine in Higashiyama is in the direction of Blue Dragon. Under the Hon-den Hall in the main house, some believed that there is the dragon’s hole. Although it is covered by plaster today, people could see that the hole kept some water, which is now believed to flow into the Shinsen-en (God’s spring) Garden at Horikawaoike. It is also said that this relates to the Gion-matsuri Festival, which is one of the three major festivals in Kyoto.

The Symbol of Higashiyama

There is a five-story tower regarded as a symbol of Higashiyama town. The tower is loved by many people, and its magnificent appearance never fails to stop passers by. It is now known as the Houkan-ji Temple, a sub-temple of the Kennin-ji Temple School from the Rinzai sect, but its history goes back as late as the Asuka period (550-710), the time when Shotoku Prince flourished. According to the dagoba register from the Higashiyama Houkan-ji Temple of Yamashiro, Nyoirin Kannon, the Goddess of Mercy that Prince Shotoku used to pray to, appeared in his dream and told him to build a temple there because it was a good place to start something. Although there was a deeply forested mountain, Prince Shotoku decided to build the five-story tower and enshrine the Buddha’s ashes there.
Each temple and shrine in Kyoto has its story. The more we know about them, the stronger we can feel the uniqueness of Kyoto.

References
Takeshi Umehara, Discoveries in Kyoto II – Walking through the passages, Shincho-sha 1998.






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